Phnom Penh, Sightseeing in Cambodia's Capital

Mekong River & Tonle Sap, Khmer Art & Royal Palace, Wat Phnom

Oct 6, 2009

At the confluence of the Tonle Sap and the Mekong River, Phnom Penh is one of Asia's most delightful capitals, well worth a visit after the temples of Angkor.

Chaotic and relaxed, Phnom Penh stretches along a cool waterfront, sets up myriad trades in colourful lanes and directs its honking traffic along French style boulevards fragrant with frangipani. There are luxury hotels and colonial mansions, barbecues on the pavements, rickshaws and tuk-tuks, an Independence Monument rising like a giant lotus and traditional Apsara dancers.

Most attractions are close to the river so sightseeing is easy, from Wat Phnom temple to the Royal Palace or the National Museum rich in ancient Khmer art. Tourists are few, quick to ponder on a gruesome past but soon swept off their feet by the myriad sights and sounds of Cambodia’s capital.

Phnom Penh Sightseeing, Royal Palace and Khmer Art National Museum

Set among flowers and lawns, the Royal Palace is all white and gold with colonnades and spires, pagoda roofs and ornate gates. Bougainvillaea tumble over the walls, palm trees scatter a little shade and orange-robed monks wander around gleaming shrines and pavilions. The highlight is the Silver Pagoda with its marble staircase, precious statues and 5000 silver tiles on the floor, mostly hidden under a carpet.

The nearby National Museum claims the world’s finest collection of Khmer sculptures, beautifully displayed in galleries and cloisters around an inner garden. Exhibits range from the pre-Angkor era to modern times and include a 12th century statue of Jayavarman VII, founder of Angkor Tom.

Phnom Penh owes much of its charm to the Tonle Sap. Palms and flags from many nations line the waterfront where locals and visitors enjoy the breeze and gaze at the view. Plush outdoor cafes beckon along Sisowath Quay while the Foreign Correspondent Club, open to all, offers superb views over the Tonle Sap and its confluence with the Mekong on the edge of town.

Sailing along the Mekong ranks high among the capital’s attractions, especially at sunset when the Royal Palace glows like gold above the city. There are houseboats and floating villages, fishermen dragging their nets, women cooking on open fires and children diving in soupy water.

Long ago according to legend, a lady called Penh discovered precious Buddha images on the river bank and Cambodia's capital has been named after her. A temple was built on the only hill around and to this day, Wat Phnom is the city’s most sacred spot. It’s the place to pray or make a wish among volutes of incense and lotus offerings. Monkeys scamper on the steps, stalls sell fresh pineapple and lotus seeds and fortune tellers wait for trade.

Close to the river, Wat Ounalom houses the headquarters of the Buddhist brotherhood. The complex boasts over 40 structures and items salvaged from the Khmer Rouge. The stupa behind the main building is said to contain a Buddha relic.

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