Phnom Penh - The Backpacker's guide
Getting the Most Out of Phnom Penh, Making the Most of Your Money.
Aug 21, 2009
From 1975-1979, the people of Cambodia were victims to one of the worst cases of genocide in history under the Pol Pot regime. With more than a million deaths, it's hard to imagine that such atrocities took place so recently.
Despite what has taken place, though, the people of Cambodia are as friendly as they get. Hoards of travelers are drawn to Cambodia's capital every year – if not for the charm and culture of the city then for what's considered ridiculously cheap living to most. $0.50* beers, $3.00 a night accommodation and scrumptious meals for less than a quarter of what it would cost in most cities.
The large number of expats are proof of the city's spiderweb charm – come too close and it's easy to get stuck. Chat with Englishmen who run bars or Australians who've opened restaurants, the stories are more or less the same – traveling through South East Asia before coming to Cambodia and deciding there was no place they'd rather be.
It doesn't take long, however, to see the darker side of this city. A walk through Boeng Kak, Lakeside, the favorite street of backpackers, dangerously peddles drugs of every kind – cases of theft are not uncommon, so be careful when walking there at night, as most friendly tuk-tuk drivers will advise.
Where to Stay in Phnom Penh
For the cheapest rooms with the best value, check into Same Same But Different Guest House along Lakeside - with rooms for $4 and up, meals for $2 and up and a warm, family environment, it's an experience to end each day with a round of Mekong Whiskey amidst locals, fellow travelers and the family dog, Bellie; a great environment for solo travelers.
For more of life's comforts, kick back at Green Lake Guest House, also overlooking the lake. More suited to couples and families, Green Lake serves a delicious spread of Western, Asian and Local cuisine. With possibly the best veggie burger in Phnom Penh, a nice selection of DVDs and a pool table, many end up staying longer than expected. Rooms come at $8 a night and up.
Phnom Penh's Best - Wine & Dine
Check out La Dolce Vita (78 Ph 93, Central Phnom Penh) for some excellent Italian food - a bottle of wine comes at $9.00 and is none too shabby for the price.
For the cheapest drinks in town, stroll down Riverside to Chivas Shack (Street 130 Number 8), a restaurant that serves $0.50 beer all night.
The Foreign Correspondents Club (363 Sisowath Quay) along Riverside is worth at least one visit. While the drinks are more expensive that most places in Phnom Penh, the stunning view of the river and relaxing environment makes it worth every dollar. Drinks are $2.00 and up.
For cheap drinks at Lakeside, head to Moskito Bar. From Open Mic Monday's for free shot of Mekong Whiskey for anyone who entertains with song, to Ladies' Night Sunday which provides discounted drinks for ladies, great deals are on offer every night. For some good Khmer food, order from the new and as of yet unnamed restaurant directly opposite the bar and enjoy dirt-cheap drinks with some equally affordable and hearty meals. Drinks are $1.00 and up, restaurant is closed on Sundays.
To escape from the busy city life, head to Lost & Found Bar (15m off Lakeside, behind music store Boom Boom Room), a cushion-filled drinking spot stacked with everyone's favorite board games. Settle down to Scrabble with a Singapore Sling or compete over Connect 4 with a beer. Cocktails go at $2.50, with 2-for-1 deals.
Sights in Cambodia's Capital
A must-see in Phnom Penh are historical sights not particularly easy to stomach, but a necessary visit. The sprawling Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (off Ph113) exhibits the atrocities that took place in the Khmer Rouge. What was once a high school, then a torture ground and now a museum journeys through the faces of victims, torture sites and jail cells where prisoners were kept. Admission: $2.00
Less vast but equally shocking is Choeung Ek Killing Fields (14km South of Phnom Penh), where a tower of skulls from Khmer Rouge victims stands as a sobering reminder of what took place. A walk around the area will introduce mass burial sites, torture trees and pictures taken during the rouge. Admission: $2.00
Shopping on a Shoestring in Phnom Penh
The Russian Market (off Ph 155) – so called because of its foundation of Russian traders – is home to countless stalls selling everything from clothing to pottery to souvenirs. Get ready to haggle as these vendors drive a hard bargain.
Day Trip To Kirirom
Spend a day away from Phnom Penh and head to Chombak Ecogarden at Kirirom, a village about 120km away from the city with a $2.00 admission. Waterfalls, mountains and a most peaceful environment welcome all to this quiet asylum. Arrange a homestay upon arrival and experience the true Khmer way of life with meals and a look into Khmer living with a local family. Nearby, Kirirom National Park, admission $5.00, winds up to the top of a mountain for a breathtaking view.
Among travelers, Phnom Penh is known to be a love it or hate it city, with most leaning towards the former. With much to do and see, Phnom Penh is worth at least a week, though like many have found, the more time spent there, the harder it is to leave.
* Prices are in USD.
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