Cambodia's Less Traveled Remote Jungle Temples
Angkor Wat is Justly Famous, But There Are Other Hidden Temple Gems.
Many of these are well preserved but rarely visited and shrouded in forest, allowing travelers to feel as the early European explorers may have, stumbling on ancient jungle ruins.
These temples combine a cultural journey with adventure and beg exploration via hiking or mountain biking trips through the stunning local countryside or a journey with one of the several off-road motorbike companies operating out of Siem Reap or the capital Phnom Penh.
The following are some less explored temples which richly reward more intrepid travelers with their beauty and offer great day trips, whether by car or any other means.
Phnom Chisor
This lovely mountain temple is just 50 kilometers south of the capital in Takeo province and makes an ideal day trip. Built of brick and laterite in the 11th century by King Suryavarmin I (who also inaugurated Preah Vihear temple), Phnom Chisor requires a climb of 504 stairs, but is worth it for the stunning views across the floodplains of Takeo, the perennial cool breeze and some fine sandstone carvings preserved on temple lintels. Nearby, the famous picnic spot of Tonle Bati also boasts temples from a century earlier credited to King Jayavarmin VII and provides a welcome place for relaxation and a picnic on the river before the journey home.
Phnom Da
Also in Takeo, Phnom Da and its sister island Angkor Borei can be reached by boat, usually from the provincial capital, for much of the year. Phnom Da dates back to the 7th or 8th century, although the current impressive temple at its peak is believed to have been constructed around the 11th century. Angkor Borei town, around 100 kilometers from Phnom Penh, has been inhabited continuously for at least 2,500 years and boasts a highly recommended museum which explains something of the southern Cambodian Funan empire, which vied with the northern Chenla dynasty for power over modern Cambodia before the rise of the Angkor kings. Besides the splendor of the boat journey here (or, alternatively, a challenging off-road motorbike trip in dry season) the brick and sandstone Phnom Da showcases some wonderful pre-Angkorian carvings. Guesthouse accommodation is available in Angkor Borei and there are basic hotels in Takeo.
Sambo Prey Kuk
Magical Sambo Prey Kuk is now believed to have been the capital of the Chenla Empire in the 7th century and consists of scores of pre-Angkor temples. It is located around 20 kilometers from Kampong Thom town, which in turn lies almost perfectly halfway on the highway between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. These multiple groups of sandstone and brick structures range from well preserved to little more than piles of stones but, cloaked in forest, the area retains the serenity of a religious site. The temples can be visited as a day trip from Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, or a good range of accommodation is available in Kampong Thom town.
Banteay Chhmar
Around four hours from Siem Reap and nearly 60 kilometers from the nearest large town, Sisophon, Banteay Chhmar (which means 'the narrow fortress') is the ultimate lost jungle temple. Once at the heart of its own sprawling city, it is now being rapidly reclaimed by jungle. However, despite this and severe looting (it is located just 20 kilometers from the Thai border) many magnificent carvings remain in the ruins. Banteay Chhmar is the grandest of around 270 temples located so far in Banteay Meanchey province and may once have served as a second capital. Like the better known Angkor Thom, this is a 12th century creation of King Jayavarmin VII. In contrast to bustling Angkor, there are no English-speaking guides on hand at this isolated site, but local children appear out of the jungle like forest angels to help travelers clamber through their ancient playground for a few dollars. Basic accommodation is available at Sisophon, and resort standard rooms available in the border town of Poi Pet, although most visit this site as a long daytrip from Siem Reap.
Beng Malea
Nearly 80 kilometers from Siem Reap town, Beng Malea is a large early 12th century Hindu-dedicated sandstone temple which emerges abruptly from jungle in a tangle of massive tree roots. A new road past the temple to Koh Ker has made it much more accessible in recent years, although it maintains its tranquil, remote feel. Exuding an oasis-in-the-jungle atmosphere, this is a favorite with temple enthusiasts keen to get off the beaten track.
Koh Ker
Pronounced 'Koh Kay', this vast collection of temples (more are continually being discovered) is dominated by a seven-storey step pyramid temple rising 40 meters above the jungle and crowned with a garuda, or mythical bird. Views from the peak across the forest canopy and Dangrek Mountains are breathtaking. Although a new road has been constructed, there is basic accommodation nearby and an entrance fee, this 10th century former capital of King Jayavarmin IV remains on of the less visited jungle temples, around 100 kilometers north-east of the main Angkor complex.
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